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Kelsie Cuevas ♦
Picture this: Sandy white beaches dotted with palm trees swaying overhead while listening to the ebb and flow of the ocean as the crystal-clear waters glisten. Sounds like a dream, right? If you’ve ever seen a picture of Half Moon Caye, you would understand why visiting this World Heritage Site is every Belizean traveler’s dream. I had the privilege of visiting a couple of times previously, but there was one thing I needed to do to gain the full experience of this island’s magic—an overnight camp stay.
My phone rings and I pick it up quickly. My best friend, Carolee, is on the other end asking about my weekend plans. As I begin to bore her with details, she interrupts me, explaining that a space has opened up on a chartered boat trip her family and close friends had organized to Half Moon Caye. “Do you think you can make it?” I hurriedly packed my overnight bag; I couldn’t pass up this opportunity.
Boat trips to Half Moon Caye are usually arranged through NGOs like the Belize Audubon Society or with dive shops like Amigos Del Mar, but privately chartered boat rides like this are ideal for family and friend groups. The two-hour trip from Belize City takes us to the farthest atoll from the mainland and Belize’s most eastern territory. It’s a long and bumpy ride and, if you’re like me, the excursion will have you repeating to yourself, “Are we there yet?” at least a couple of times. Finally, I know we’re almost at our destination when the ocean of blue before us reveals a crescent-shaped island in the distance, and I am instantly filled with excitement. Half Moon Caye is known for its Frigate birds, and I watch them lazily glide above the island as we approach. I’m stunned, as always, by the caye’s unique features. Drawing closer, I can now see two contrasting shades of green, the island divided into two ecosystems: The western side is filled with dense vegetation of lush, green littoral forest, while the eastern side is scattered all over with coconut trees swaying in the wind. All that, surrounded by ethereal shades of blue, makes for an idyllic scene.
We disembark from the boat and carry our luggage over to the campgrounds. We don’t have a tough time deciding where to pitch our tent, since the ocean stretches out right before us with a front-row view of aqua blues at every angle. Declared a monument in 1982 and co-managed by the Belize Audubon Society, this picturesque paradise is Belize’s oldest site for wildlife protection. For visitors, the island houses bathrooms and campground showers, but meals are prepared beachside, next to our "house" for the night. My advice: pack lots of snacks and lots of water. You’ll also want to make sure you have a large enough cooler to store ice, a precious commodity on a hot day on the island.
Once our crew has unpacked and gotten a quick meal, we set out on our first adventure for the day. There is no time to waste and there is much to explore since the island measures about 45 square acres, most of it being easily accessible by foot trails. I head over to the northern part of the island on the beachside. Caution tape is stretched across a portion of the beach, signifying a turtle nesting area. As I get closer, but not too close, I see little turtle eggs buried in the shallow sand next to paddle trails from the mother who has laid her eggs and set out to sea again. These white, sandy beaches are lounging areas for visitors most of the year, but from May to November, they serve as an important nesting ground to Belize’s three endangered sea turtle species. It’s truly a spectacular thing to see.
Next, we set out farther along the beach to take a swim. I soak in the warm water and sink my toes deep into the sand to anchor myself as the waves lull me into a trance. I open my eyes and look around me and then pinch myself to make sure I’m not dreaming. The sun’s rays reflect and refract from the water, making the island truly look magical as the sparkling ocean stretches out into the horizon. In the distance, I can see the white fluffs of froth outlining the crashing waves as they break on top of the coral reef. No picture on my phone does this scene justice.
We decide that our last adventure for the day will be a walk to Sunset Beach, a short trail that leads to the western side of the island and offers a clear view of the sun setting over the horizon. However, as we begin our stroll we spot a storm hovering in the distance and decide to hurry back to the camping grounds as the clouds creep closer. We figure it might be best to secure our tents and belongings on the beach. Dark, gray clouds now hang heavy, contrasting against the ocean below with its striking bright blue. I can feel the wind pick up, and strong gusts now have the palm trees dancing. Usually, a looming storm scares me, but here I stand in awe. The island’s beauty is undeniable, even on the brink of a raging storm. We quickly take shelter in our tents, but we realize we underestimated the strength of the storm, and as the rain descends, water begins to seep through our tents. Thankfully, the rangers on the island are kind enough to board most of our group in their quarters for the night. I sleep peacefully, tired from the day’s adventures but content.
I’m not a morning person and rarely ever find it necessary to be up at the crack of dawn, but as my alarm rings at 5:00 a.m., Carolee and I slip out of bed and sneak off to the beach. I pause in admiration as I look up. Last night’s grey clouds are now just a dull memory as vivid shades of pink, purple and orange tint the fluffy clouds hanging over us, the bright sun illuminating behind and just above the horizon. It just might be the prettiest sunrise I’ve ever seen, or perhaps it’s the magic of the island at work again. We sit on the beach for a while as the day breaks, just idly gazing at the decorated sky while the waves gently ebb and flow on the shore. A moment of peace and tranquillity.
The rest of the morning entails breakfast on the beach with a cup of coffee and a last dip in the ocean before we begin to pack up. Before leaving, we break up into groups for a beach clean-up, a routine task for us each time we visit the island to ensure we leave nothing but footprints behind.
As I board the boat, I look back and take one last moment to appreciate the beauty of Half Moon Caye. I breathe in the salty air, an elixir for my lungs. I am recharged and filled with gratitude for this priceless experience. Every Belizean should experience and feel this magic too, I think to myself. ♦
Photos by Kelsie Cuevas
Kelsie Cuevas is an accounting major at the University of Belize. A proud dog-mom to her four-year-old rescue dog, she lives in Belmopan and enjoys staying active and spending time with her family and her beloved.