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Author: Charles Coc ♦
Among the twists and turns of the Hummingbird Highway, between villages, mountains and dense Belizean forests, is a site that needs no Insta or Snapchat filter. Located ten miles south of Belmopan and about half mile in from the highway, is the Caves Branch Jungle Lodge and Botanical Garden, a resort tailored especially for those seeking to become one with nature.
As our group of students and lecturers from the University of Belize approached the entrance road, our driver Carlo cautioned us to keep our wondering heads inside the vehicle because of the protruding vines and limbs. Upon exiting the highway onto the narrow, rocky road, the canopy of the rain forest shielded us from the full force of the beating sun, with only occasional beams of light managing to burst through.
Carlo said we should keep our eyes open for the possible sighting of the “royal rat” (the gibnut), tropical birds, and other wildlife. Our chances were slim, however, given that it was only 9:30 in the morning. Regardless, the flora was what interested us the most. Of the many places in Belize to observe plant life, the Caves Branch Botanical Garden had piqued our interest when we learned that it contains the largest collection of orchids and epiphytes in the country.
Upon arrival at the lodge, we met the owners' ginormous dog Buster, who lay sprawling in the sun while staff members greeted us and offered refreshments.
Our tour guide Mr Pascual Garcia, who has been working at the botanical garden for approximately three years, greeted us and provided the itinerary for the day. He explained that the garden was established in 2008 by Ella Baron, to bring awareness and help conserve the approximately 11,000 species of plants on record in Belize.
He first led us to the bromeliad section of the garden, also known as the pineapple family section. In this area alone, there were so many different species it was impossible to maintain focus on any one in particular. Plants dangled from above, off posts, and from trees; some had beautiful flowers that smelled like the primary ingredients of Victoria’s Secret perfumes.
As we proceeded, Mr. Garcia quizzed us on the identification and names of the plants, most of which were tongue twisters—difficult to pronounce and difficult to remember. He also spoke about a recent project named the “Inventory of Epiphytes of Belize,” which took the Caves Branch team approximately five years to complete!
“For the success of this vast collection of plants, our team embarked on many expeditions deep into Belize’s jungle to collect many different species of plants,” explained our guide. He reported that during this four to five-year period, the largest expedition took 21 days in the jungle gathering information for Belize. It was quite obvious Mr. Garcia enjoyed being a botanist, taking care of the plant collection and sharing information about them.
Ella Baron, the lead botanist, later told me via email that the Caves Branch team continues propagating the plants, photographing them, and making additional observations. "All the data, photos and dried specimens that we make go into the herbarium at the Belmopan Forestry Department," she explained. "Like a library of plants, the herbarium allows scientists and students to see those plants in dry form and learn about them."
An epiphyte (plant that grows upon another plant) to be transplanted on a tree in the garden
Moving from the bromeliad section of the garden, we were escorted through small rocky trails toward the orchid division. Along the way there were various other families and species of trees native to Belize. We also made another brief encounter with the “beast from the east.” Our first instinct was to run; however, Mr. Garcia reassured us that Buster was still a puppy at heart and loved all the visitors.
From the corner of my eye, the vibrant red petals of a flower I had never seen before grabbed my attention. As I gazed in awe, Mr. Garcia approached and said, “I see you’ve met the hot lips.” He went on to explain that the plant is called hot lips because it resembles those of a woman with red lipstick. Continuing on, we were warned not to stand under certain trees because the birds that reside in those particular trees were likely to “take frequent bathroom breaks on the guests.”
Hot lips. Scientific name: Psychotria poeppigiana
Along the way we admired the small, beautifully furnished cabanas surrounded by shady trees and the melody of crickets and birds chirping. One visitor was enjoying a full-body massage from one of the lodge’s experienced masseuses.
Upon reaching the orchid section, a kaleidoscope of colours from the great variety of orchids greeted us. Mr. Garcia explained that the the garden started with a donation of orchids from a friend of the owners who was no longer able to care for them. Now, the vast majority of the garden are plants collected during the expeditions.
And then we saw, set out on its very own stage, a white flower about an inch in length, with tiny purple spots sprinkled on the petals and very fine hairs on its surface. “This flower is called Alsobia baroniae,” explained the guide, pointing at Ella Baron’s prize possession, which has been named after her. “It’s a new species not only to Belize but to the science community.”
Alsobia baroniae, named after Ella Baron, lead botanist at Caves Branch Botanical Garden
As our tour came to an end, Mr. Garcia mentioned, downheartedly, the threat the garden faces with the hurricane season closely approaching. He stressed the importance of the different species of plants in Belize, how they contribute to the overall ecosystem. He also mentioned other threats they now face, such as climate change and deforestation. Nonetheless, with so much enthusiasm from our entire group, he was delighted to share his vast knowledge about the plants on display and optimistic that there are many individuals like us who care deeply about the flora and fauna of the natural environment.
With new knowledge and memories that will surely last a lifetime, we departed feeling content, realizing there is so much to appreciate in our beautiful little country, Belize.
Photos courtesy of Charles Coc and Caves Branch Jungle Lodge and Botanical Garden.
Charles Coc is a biology major at the University of Belize. He lives in San Ignacio Town and enjoys reading as well as hiking, running, and other outdoor activities.