_edited.png)
Ashley Chablé ♦
It might not be as famous as Mexico’s Chichen Itza or have structures as tall as Guatemala’s Tikal, but Xunantunich, right here in Belize, will take your breath away. Why go to other countries to visit their archaeological sites when you can explore your own country’s majestic places?
Let’s start off with a quick pronunciation lesson. As we locals know, Xunantunich is pronounced "shoo-nan-too-nitch." But did you know that the /Sh/ sound for the letter “X” is typical of Mopan and Yucatec pronunciation? Xunantunich is definitely one of Belize’s grandest Maya archaeological sites. I don’t say this just because it is located in my hometown, San Jose Succotz Village, but because it brings me great memories: memories of strenuous hikes on Sundays, memories of picnics with friends, and memories of the peaceful feeling on top of El Castillo – the main pyramid – during early mornings or late afternoons.
Xunantunich means “maiden of the rock” or “stone woman” in the Maya language (a Mopan and Yucatec combination name). Why this name? It is said that back in the 1800s, a gentleman spotted a woman at the site, dressed entirely in white and with bright eyes. She appeared in front of El Castillo, climbed up the stone stairs, and disappeared into one of the cave-like enclosures.
Okay! Enough about that spooky situation. Let’s get to the destination.
Along the short drive between San Ignacio and Benque, a man-made tree sculpture will welcome you to San Jose Succotz. Drive a little deeper into the village, and on your right you will pass a row of small shopping booths selling crafts and textiles. Our productive villagers put their creative hands at work to produce these amazing carvings and embroideries. Look toward the river, also on your right, and you will spot the hand-cranked ferry that will take you across the vibrant green Mopan River.
The ferry ride is very short, and after you reach the other side of the Mopan, you can either drive to the visitor center or you can enjoy the walk uphill. I encourage you to take the walk if you're up for the rather strenuous 30 to 40-minute hike, passing through the lush forest, alive with howling monkeys and tweeting birds. The “oohs” and “awws” of nature.
Whenever I walk up this trail it makes me imagine that I am back in time with my ancestors, coming from the river with a pitcher filled with water, the bright blue sky above, birds singing in the lush green trees, monkeys scampering about, and my fellow Maya people back at the castle communing with the Gods. So, come along and have this wonderful experience that makes me feel this connection with my ancestors.
Getting to the actual site, Xunantunich’s centre contains two main plazas: Plaza A and Plaza B, with C and D located around the edges. The most impressive building is El Castillo (Spanish for “castle”). This magnificent pyramid is about 130 feet high, and from its top on the southern side, a breathtaking view spreads before your eyes: spectacular jungles and farmlands within and around San Jose Succotz and Benque Viejo Del Carmen on the Belize side and the town of Melchor de Mencos across the Guatemalan border.
The towers on the El Castillo pyramid have become an identifying feature of Belize. Be very careful while climbing up, though. And once you reach the top, make sure you stay away from the edges and hold on tight because the tremendous, sturdy breeze can blow you away.
I will never forget the first time I climbed El Castillo. Steering my way slowly up the small steps, then through the ancient cellars and stone passageways, sparked excitement and great enthusiasm for what was further above. I stopped for a rest at the level right before the top of the pyramid, which provided shade and a welcomed place to rest and take a breath after the steep climb. The most amazing detail, the one that captured my attention completely, was the left outer wall of El Castillo decorated with hieroglyphs displaying various symbols of Maya astronomy and history.
Xunantunich is also a great site for a day trip or picnic, and the Mopan River, which is popular for canoeing, kayaking, inner tubing and swimming, makes it a delightful excursion. Or you might prefer just walking around, checking out the ball courts and other ancient structures that fire your imagination. You picture how life might have been so many centuries ago when all that area was a thriving agricultural and trade center, the Macal and Mopan rivers being important links for carrying people and goods to various places all the way down to the seacoast.
People come from far and wide to see this lovely leftover of the ancient Maya civilization. Being that it is within your country and heritage, why can't you who live right here in Belize? Come and explore my culture, my traditions. And most especially, come and enjoy your country’s masterpieces, Xunantunich being one of them.
Photos by Ashley Chablé and Irwin Puc
Ahsley Chablé is an accounting major at the University of Belize. She lives in San Jose Succotz and enjoys dancing and swimming on Sunday afternoons.